They do not skimp, though: bisque is loaded with lobster, including the prized claw, the meat fresh and springy. There is a beef Wellington here — practically legally-obliged in a grill — that comes reddish-pink with pastry as flaky as a failing friendship. Sirloin from an ex-dairy Irish Holstein/shorthorn cross, aged 50 days, came with its fat as crunchy as the bread’s crust, cooked to a perfect medium-rare and its flavour as intense as a good stock, with unexpected bone marrow on the side for wonderful gluttony. There are 15 types of steak to choose from, mostly from the UK but also from Australia, Japan, Spain. The US, if you really must.
Lutyens Grill at The Ned City of London restaurant review: When life throws you a zigzag, head straight here
