The building itself, with its jutting conservatory (where those just drinking can sit), is no beauty. And then comes the food: the five-course, £80 tasting menu is the one to have: it changes, but oysters tend to be a constant, and expect lots of grilled fish and roasted meats. There will be seaside touches throughout — seaweed here and there, pebbles from the beach as part of the presentation. The wine list offers uncommonly good value. It is as plain a pub as they come, with no gastropub pretensions despite its Michelin star, but it happens to serve some of the country’s best food.
Country pub of the week: the Sportsman, Seasalter
