Moss and Moor, Ilkley: Is a garden centre hiding one of Britain’s best restaurants?

As ever, though, with the places I love, it’s not just about the food. The first time I went to Moss and Moor, my little girl was sick. Everywhere. You’d forgive a restaurant for being a bit disconcerted by this — hell, I’m the father of said three-year-old, and I was disconcerted by it — but the team just calmly checked she was ok, moved us to another table, and replaced everything. And yes, that’s quite an extreme service check, but if they can pass something like that with flying colours, you suspect that you can probably relax about the other more mundane stuff. And you’d be right to: you’ll be looked after in that way that’s closer to genuine hospitality than it is to service. You get the sense that the team really want you to be ok, not because their job depends upon it, but because the world’s just nicer when everyone’s ok.