So, yes, a pub for down-from-Londoners, who are rewarded with negronis, superlative bar snacks, meat from Fiddian-Green’s family farm, a bed in an absurdly beautiful shepherd’s hut with its own log burner and underfloor heating. But also a pub for locals, who pop in for a pint after work, for the raffle, for a coffee and whatever the chef fancied making that morning — a fat sausage roll, a just-out-of the-oven almond cake. The Merry Harriers — all things to all people, in the best possible way.