The squirrel thing is a bit of a ruse, as it happens. The flesh of the filleted bass is, in fact, sliced into a porcupine haircut, fried and given peas for eyes. As disguises go, it’s down there with Clark Kent’s glasses. With it came surly preserved mushrooms, cucumber apparently pickled (briefly, it must have been) and bright red cherry tomatoes. We also had duck, chicken too. Jiangnan is new, unfamiliar territory to me, and perhaps this is how it’s meant to be. But, well, only the noodles delighted; the rest disappointed.
David Ellis reviews Song He Lou: Only the noodles are any good
