Growing up, Nowruz — or Persian New Year — was always celebrated in my home. It’s the kind of occasion where the food does most of the talking — as is the case with most of Persian culture. Falling on the spring equinox, it’s a time of renewal, family gatherings and, most importantly, an absolute feast.
While others might be focused on resolutions and turning over a new leaf, many of us are just focused on the tahdig — because who could tear their senses away from that golden, crispy rice that’s basically a rite of passage?
The lead up to Nowruz is almost as exciting as the day itself. The hallways and lounges of homes are graced with the “haft-sin”: tables which are adorned with symbolic foods and items that represent health, prosperity and rebirth. Enter any home and you’ll be met with the smell of fresh herbs, of warming spices and candles, of slow-cooked stews (known as “khoreshts”).
Like any cultural celebration, the food carries stories and significance. From “sabzi polo ba mahi” (herbed rice with fish), representing new beginnings, to “kuku sabzi” (a green, herby frittata) symbolising rebirth, every dish has a purpose. And no Persian feast is complete without a selection of “shirini”, or cakes, sweets and pastries.
So if you’re looking to celebrate Nowruz properly — or just want an excuse to cook up a Persian spread — here are some of the most important dishes of the season, recipes for making them, and the stories that they tell. Each should feed a family of four to five.
Haft-sin: the symbolic table of Nowruz
Before diving into the dishes, it’s essential to talk about the “haft-sin” — the centrepiece of any Nowruz gathering. This beautifully arranged table features seven symbolic foods, each starting with the Persian letter S (“sin”). These include:
- Sabzeh: sprouted wheat, lentils or barley which grown at home in the run up to Nowruz (and then released into a river or stream on the 13th day of the new year). These represent rebirth and growth.
- Senjed: dried lotus fruit, which symbolise love and wisdom.
- Seer: garlic, for health and protection.
- Seeb: apple, for beauty and good health.
- Somagh/sumac: the tangy spice made from dried and ground berries of the rhus coriaria plant, whose deep red colour symbolises the sunrise and represents good triumphing over evil.
- Samanu: a sweet wheat pudding which signifies strength and wealth.
- Serke: vinegar, which acts as a reminder of patience and the wisdom that comes with age.
Sabzi polo ba mahi (herbed rice with fish)
Amira Arasteh
While Persian cuisine is known for its kebabs and khoreshts, the dish many Iranians choose to eat to celebrate the new year is herbed rice with fish. A must-have on the Nowruz table, it is all about fresh and fragrant herbs, accompanied by grilled or fried white fish. The green herbs (coriander, dill, parsley and chives) represent new life, while the fish symbolises movement and prosperity. Every little helping hand to head into the new year with good fortune swimming your way.
- 500g basmati rice
- 8 tbsp oil
- 4-5 tbsp flour
- 4 tbsp lemon juice
- 4-5 fillets cod/sea bass (though any white fish can work)
- 3 bunches young garlic (alternatively, use leeks or spring onions)
- 3 tbsp salt
- 2 medium sized potatoes, sliced ½cm
- 2 eggs
- 1 bunch fresh dill
- 1 tbsp dried dill
- ½ bunch flat parsley
- ½ bunch coriander
- ½ tsp turmeric
- 60ml water
- Saffron, a pinch
- Salt and pepper, to taste
- Chop the spring onions, parsley, coriander, fresh dill and either the most of the young garlic, spring onions or leeks.
- Soak the rice for at least half an hour (preferably three hours) in lukewarm water.
- In a large pan, bring 240ml of water to the boil, then add three tablespoons of salt to the pan.
- Drain the rice and add it to the boiling, salted water.
- Cover and boil for 8-10 minutes or until the rice is soft on the outside.
- Once boiled, lower the heat and add the chopped fresh herbs.
- Stir and drain the rice and herb mixture.
- Heat a separate pot and add five tbsp oil and 60ml water.
- Place the sliced potatoes on the bottom of the pan and add half of the herbed rice mixture.
- Add dried dill and more garlic for more fragrance and flavour.
- Finish it off with the rest of the rice mixture and put the lid on to cook on a high heat for 10 minutes.
- Lower the heat and cook for a further 30-40 minutes.
- Grind the saffron using a pestle and mortar and mix in 1 tsp of hot water.
- Take ½ cup of the cooked rice and mix with the saffron. Scoop saffron rice on top of the remaining cooked rice.
- Wash the fish and dry with a kitchen towel.
- Combine the flour, turmeric, salt and pepper in a bowl and cover the fish in the mixture.
- Beat the eggs and cover the flour-coated fish fillets in the egg mixture.
- Heat 3 tablespoons of oil in a pan and when hot, add the fish. Fry either side until golden (a few minutes each side).
- Pour lemon juice over fish for extra flavour.
Kuku sabzi (herbed frittata)
Amira Arasteh
Kuku sabzi is typically served on the first day of spring and Persian new year. Think of it as a Persian frittata, but with more herbs and eggs. The herbs represent rebirth and the eggs, fertility and new life. This one’s a great dish for vegetarians — and while some people eat as a side or starter dish, kuku sabzi is more than substantial enough to be enjoyed as a main course, too.
- 300g flat leaf parsley
- 300g spring onions (green parts) or chives
- 200g coriander
- 5 eggs
- 2 cups lettuce
- 2 tbsp turmeric
- 2 tbsp walnuts, chopped
- 1 tbsp barberries
- 1 tbsp flour
- 13 tbsp oil (of choice)
- Salt and pepper, to taste
- Wash and chop the herbs and leave to drain completely.
- Fry in five tbsp oil for five minutes and then leave to cool down.
- Beat the eggs and add flour, turmeric, berries, walnuts, salt and pepper to the mix.
- Add the herbs to the mixture and mix well.
- Pour four tbsp oil in the frying pan and once hot, add the mixture.
- Flatten the mixture using a spatula.
- Cover the pan with its lid and let it cook for 10 minutes.
- Flip ‘omelette’ over in the pan.
- Add 3-4 more tbsp of oil to the pan for the other side to cook and become golden. Allow to cook for a further 10 minutes (no need for the lid).
- Cut kuku into segments and serve with traditional Persian bread (sangak or lavash) or any type of flatbread; mast-o khiar (yoghurt with cucumber) and ‘torshi’ (pickled vegetables).
Reshteh Polo (Noodle Rice)
Translating to “noodle rice”, it’s an unusual mix, for sure. But Persians have never been afraid to double carb. This dish combines rice with toasted Persian noodles (“reshteh”), which symbolise the threads of fate and setting intentions for the year ahead. Some people even believe that eating reshteh polo on Nowruz helps resolve any problems in the coming year. Who wants a plate of this now? But even if you’re not into superstition, it’s a delicious and heartwarming dish for the last of the cold weather before spring.
- 500g basmati rice
- 5 tbsp oil
- 85-100g reshteh noodles
- 3 tbsp salt
- 2 medium sized potatoes, sliced ½cm
- 60ml water
- Saffron, a pinch
- Salt and pepper, to taste
- Soak the rice for at least half an hour (preferably three hours) in lukewarm water.
- In a large pan, bring about 240ml of water to the boil.
- Add three tablespoons of salt to the pan.
- Drain the rice and add it to the boiling salted water.
- Cover and boil for eight to 10 minutes or until the rice is soft on the outside.
- Once boiled, lower the heat and add the reshteh noodles.
- Stir and drain the rice and noodle mixture.
- Heat a separate pot and add five tbsp oil and ¼cup of water.
- Place the sliced potatoes on the bottom of the pan and add half of the rice and noodle mixture.
- Finish it off with the rest of the rice mixture and put the lid on to cook on a high heat for 10 minutes.
- Lower the heat and cook for a further 30-40 minutes.
- Grind the saffron using a pestle and mortar and mix in 1 teaspoon of hot water.
- Take 1/2 cup of the cooked rice and mix with the saffron. Scoop saffron rice on top of the remaining cooked white rice.
- Serve with lightly toasted/fried barberries (optional)
No Nowruz feast is complete without Persian sweets especially Iranian baklava — which is sweetened with rosewater and cardamom — and the “samanu” sweet wheat pudding from the Haft-sin table. Made from slow cooking sprouting wheat until it turns into a caramel-like dessert, it’s a sweet treat with which one must finish the feast.
Another key dessert is “nan-e berenji” (rice flour cookies). If made correctly, these cookies will melt in your mouth and are perfect to be enjoyed alongside a cup of Persian tea (traditionally black, with sugar cubes or honey as a sweetener, should you wish). Lightly flavoured with rosewater and sprinkled with poppy seeds, these cookies represent sweetness and joy for the year ahead (something to think about whenever a sweet treat is indulged…) Top tip: batch cook a bunch of these and store them in the freezer so you have some snacks on-hand for the weeks ahead.
- 2 cups rice flour
- ½ cup unsalted butter, softened
- ½ cup icing sugar
- 1 egg yolk
- 2 tbsp rosewater
- 1 tbsp poppy seeds (to garnish)
- ½ tsp cardamom powder
- Mix the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy.
- Mix in the egg yolk, rosewater and cardamom.
- Gradually add the rice flour, mixing until a soft dough forms.
- Chill for 30 minutes.
- Roll into small balls and flatten slightly.
- Sprinkle with poppy seeds.
- Bake at 160°C (fan) for 15-18 minutes (until set but not browned).
- Allow the cookies to cool completely on the side, before serving with Persian tea
The last Tuesday evening before Nowruz is known as “Chaharshanbe Suri” (“The Scarlet Wednesday”), where those celebrating the new year will dance around a fire and bang spoons in this special custom. While most of the exciting foods are saved for actual Nowruz, it is Persian tradition to eat a mix of sweet and sour nuts and fruit (pistachios, almonds, raisins and so forth) on this evening. Known as “Ajeel (nuts) e Chaharshanbe Suri”, these are said to make wishes for the new year come true.