As ever, there are various “Christmas days”; the big day itself, yes, but preambles as well. Confit duck in a fig sauce is the main for celebrations with Twiggy. Duck, I think, might be the perfect festive poultry. I get mine from the excellent Maida Vale branch of Provenance Village Butcher (provenancebutcher.com); they are helpful, reliable, and often will chuck in something for the dog. For vegetables and spices and treats that I can’t afford but still indulge in, I go to the All Greens (allgreens.co.uk) across the road. Both have branches across the city, and both run reliable delivery services. To drink? Ruinart Blanc de Blanc (ruinart.com) and a 2014 Margaux (1er Grand Cru Classé, naturally). This was an extremely thoughtful engagement gift from restaurateur Samyukta Nair.