A Kiwi, but Italian too, and so is Tiella. It is not one of those tratts that sticks obstinately to one particular region. Instead, Klein simply plates up what she fancies, the stuff that makes people feel good. That might be mortadella slices the size of tricycle wheels or fierce anchovies marinated in vinegar and white wine and onions and pine nuts, a Venetian recipe called saor. Honey and chillies were drizzled over a wedge of ricotta, heat and sweetness in easy rhythm. Simple, delicious. Delica pumpkin came with curls of radicchio and messy taleggio fonduta, where the cheese is melted into cream, — a glutton’s fantasy, and rich enough to be a sugar daddy. After came the comfort of pasta e fagioli, soothing enough to silence the relentless rain outside; passatelli in chicken broth; healthy looking pasta with turnip tops, cheerfully coated with pangrattato.
Tiella, restaurant review: | The Standard
