It’s there in an omelette with Iberian ham shoulder, caramelised onion and crisps at Lolo (102 Bermondsey Street, SE1 3UB, josepizarro.com), and in the hummus with masabacha and homemade hot crisps at Now (2-4 Bedale Street, SE1 9AL, agora.london). There’s escabeche with mussels and crisps at Tokl (1 Surrey Street, WC2R 2ND, toklaslondon.com), morcilla crisps topped with chorizo, garlic and roasted peppers at Tollington’s (72 Tollington Park, N4 3AJ, @tollingtons.fishbar) and Le Noir de Bigorre ham and crisps with smoked piparra peppers at the river (92 Bartholomew Close, EC1A 7BN, ibai.london).