Spirit of Little Italy lives on at £10 pasta joint

Unlike the old guard, these plates are all genuinely good. Very good. 27 is not excusing poor quality with the low price. If dishes are unimaginative, does it matter? Rarely does imagination benefit pasta. There is an excellent parmigiana, with great ropes of mozzarella; an octopus ragu with its meat curled up in the shells of conchiglie; well-packed black crab tortelloni with a lipstick smear of tomato sauce. Elsewhere is maccheroni with vodka, a terrific beef ragu, cacio e pepe, the works. All is freshly cooked to order. We paid. And then we stayed. Why not, when wine starts at a fiver?