Nellie’s at Simpsons-in-the-Strand: Raise a toast to this boozy opera

Nellie’s is the only room in which designer Shayne Brady was given carte blanche by King. And so comes a brooding world of deep reds, ornate drapery, safari patternage and rich textures of velvet. If it sounds like I’m describing a yoghurt from Marks & Spencer, I can only apologise. It suits the short drinks and cocktails. Most are £16. The signature peach melba sling blends Peruvian pisco with peach schnaps, raspberry and lime juice, and is topped with cream soda. It’s a devotional nod to Escoffier’s vintage dessert, built of Nellie’s toast. Otherwise, the classics, from vesper martinis to Manhattan, are expert.