America, as John F Kennedy said, is a nation of immigrants, and many of the most successful exponents of modern American cooking (Wolfgang Puck, Daniel Boulud, Daniel Humm) have only found fame after moving Stateside. Alsatian-born, Manhattan-based Jean-Georges Vongerichten is another and ABC is his love letter to the melting pot of US culture and cuisine. The Knightsbridge newcomer brings three of the chef’s New York restaurants (ABC Kitchen, ABCV and ABC Cocina) together for the first time, which means everything from quesadillas stuffed with asparagus and tacos filled with crispy Dover sole to kale salad and crackling fried chicken. The room looks as good as what’s on the plate, with leafy views over to Hyde Park and, inside, a series of Damien Hirst paintings and a wine cave enclosed in amber glass.