Ordering an omelette is an efficient way to evaluate a French bistro. An Italian trattoria might be keenly assessed with risotto. Much the same, any credible bar would do well to master the Hemingway, which is made exceptionally well at One Club Row in Shoreditch but isn’t on the menu at Chiave. The two venues are close to one another — one an Italian bar, the other described as “New York-style” by people who have never been to New York.
Josh Barrie On the Sauce at Chiave: A negroni here is the key to happiness
