Luke Farrell, the founder of Plaza Khao Gaeng (103-105 New Oxford Street, WC1A 1DB, plazakhaogaeng.com) and Speedboat Bar (30 Rupert Street, W1D 6DL, speedboatbar.co.uk), has spent almost 20 years living in Thailand. Ben Chapman travelled extensively in rural Thailand before opening Kiln, his charcoal-grill follow-up to Smoking Goat. Andy Oliver spent six months working at Bo.lan, one of the most lauded restaurants in Bangkok, and visiting Thailand every year before opening Som Saa in 2016. He launched Kolae (6 Park Street, SE1 9AB, kolae.com) in October 2023. How does he think Thai food in London has changed in those intervening years?