Dullness is not a charge that could be levied against Chris Denney. He too is a chef from a time before, but of a different kind. Denney is the sort with mad, gas-lamp eyes, with a maniacal devotion to his stoves. The kind that is Trainspotting thin but looks as wiry and strong as a winch. He quivers, Denney, as though he were permanently at breaking point. Perhaps he is. At 39, until then unknown, he answered a Gumtree advert and made his name at 108 Garage, partly because of his cooking (the real deal), and partly because headlines said the place was backed by “the mafia’s banker” (very much not the real deal). In an interview I suspect he regrets, Denney told The Standard that if he didn’t win a Michelin star, “I’ll go upstairs and blow my f***ing brains out”.
Fantômas review | The Standard
