Do you chuff your potatoes? You’ll be aware of the process if not the term. Any dad worth his salt will tell you about chuffing his roasties over a pint at the pub: “I parboil my potatoes and then toss them in a colander, to mess up the edges, and then roast them in goose fat”.
Well, you know, chuffing is key. Though more important is allowing the potatoes to steam dry to remove excess moisture and to use a floury, high-in-starch variety (try rooster) that stands up to the rigmarole of roasting. Crucial too — and oft-forgotten by home cooks — is pre-heating the fat in an extremely hot oven beforehand. Adding the potatoes to a spitting pan is integral to a golden, crispy exterior that crackles and falls away to reveal that fluffy interior so craven. Those with pizza ovens might consider using them. And a word to the wise: Aldi is doing wagyu beef dripping this year, which is less good than Iberico pork fat but nevertheless worth experimenting with over the festive period.
“To chuff” was apparently popularised by Jamie Oliver back when he still said “pukka” and sold meat planks to people in small town Britain. This time it’s the chef Nathan Cornwell of the excellent Silver Birch in Chiswick. A festive lunch is easy to do but difficult to do well. Here are a few pointers (plus one for the day after, too).
Claudio Black
“For extra crispy and flavour-packed roast potatoes, it’s all about the chuffing. I do a seven minute parboil and then chuff them before leaving to dry for a really good time. I usually chuff for 10 mins or so — the more you do it, the more edges there are, which creates more surface area for the goose fat when you roast them in the oven. Once they’re completely dry, that’s when you shock them in the really hot goose fat and put them in the oven. I also whack in some crushed garlic and rosemary for additional flavour.” Nathan Cornwell, Silver Birch, Chiswick
“Brining the turkey makes a world of difference and can truly save every home cook from a dry turkey. My top tip is to season the brine with dark brown sugar, cloves, cardamom, and star anise. It gives the turkey an amazing flavour whilst keeping the meat from drying out.” Taryn Bingle, The Salusbury pub, Queen’s Park
“When it comes to turkey, the biggest mistake is blasting the poor thing at high heat and drying it out until it’s begging for mercy. Turkey is lean — it needs care. Start hot, then bring the temperature down, baste it often, and don’t overcook it. Take the legs off the turkey and roast them separately. The legs need longer; the breast needs gentler treatment. The legs and the breast have no business being cooked the same way.” Richard Corrigan, Corrigan Collection
“Streaky bacon is essential — dry-cured if possible. We roll it out between sheets of parchment to thin it slightly, which helps it crisp up beautifully without drying out the sausage. Preheat the grill and cook them on a rack so the air can circulate. Go easy on the glaze, just a quick brush of honey in the final minute of cooking. Too much too soon and you’ll lose that all-important crispiness! Finally, let them rest for three to five minutes before serving. It makes all the difference for keeping them extra juicy.” Adam Degg, Fifty Two at Rudding Park, Yorkshire
“I love braising Brussel sprouts, that way you can really spruce them up with diced shallots, chopped chestnuts, a touch of chicken or vegetable stock and lots of butter! Don’t forget to pre-cook the sprouts and remember to build some colour in the pan before adding the other ingredients.” Millie Simpson, Sauce by The Langham
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Ask your butcher for a boning
“Get the butcher to prep the turkey for you: boned and rolled, taking the legs and breast off. This helps save time and takes away the hassle of sorting out the bird yourself. Seal off the skin and roast the turkey on top of its bones, which we call a ‘trivet’. It helps with the flavour and keeps the bird juicy.” Michael Caines, Michael Caines Collection
“If you are cooking a ham, get it done early and save the cooking liquor for brining your turkey overnight on Christmas Eve. You’ll get an amazing seasoned flavour and your turkey will stay juicy and tender. I also pulse-blitz butter with fresh sage, dried cranberries and chestnuts and then stuff this under turkey skin and in the cavity for a Christmassy hit.” Ben Tish, Cubitt House group
“MSG is the secret to boost your Christmas gravy’s flavour, it will add nothing but savoury umami goodness. Add a teaspoon of MSG once the gravy has reduced in the pan and then follow with a boatload of butter. This trick is the perfect way to impress guests around the table.” Oli Brown, Updown Farmhouse, Kent
“When it comes to cranberry sauce, frozen cranberries are best—they’re convenient and cook up deliciously. And dessert, Bird’s custard is always a hit.” Connor Gadd, Trullo, Finsbury Park
“Boxing Day is a proper tradition in our house. While Christmas Day rotates between families, we spend Boxing Day all together. We’ll head to the local pub to watch the football and afterwards build what’s become our signature leftover sandwich. We use bagels saved from Christmas morning — they’re perfect for it. You build it layer by layer: leftover roast potatoes, turkey, stuffing, and veg, all bound with bread sauce, loads of butter, and plenty of freshly cracked pepper. A generous smear of cold cranberry sauce inside finishes it perfectly. Then, you skewer the whole thing together with a pig in a blanket.” Tom De Keyser, The Chalk, Chelsea