Still, as far as I can tell, no one has heard of Ikeda apart from absolutely everyone who’s anyone. I do not number among the anyones, and so had never come across the place until last week, despite it opening in 1973 as one of the country’s first Japanese restaurants. Owner Kenichi Ikeda says no newspaper critic has ever visited, which Google suggests is true (Andy Hayler’s reliably thorough blog does have an entry, however). On the other hand, by the loos are thank you notes from Mick Jagger, Cher, George Clooney, Steven Spielberg. Wes Anderson, I note, writes in felt tip, the child. There’s been a lot of chatter about A-lister restaurants lately but come on, this pisses all over Lily Allen and Gary Lineker at Dorian.