David Ellis reviews bottomless lasagne restaurant Senza Fondo: how much can one man eat?

The name is in keeping — it translates to “bottomless” — but Senza might otherwise be called Goodfellas, Toni’s, or La Dolce Vita. It is that sort of place, an American-Italian trattoria where the shtick plays within a hair’s breadth of parody. Nothing quite in the realms of waiters putting “-a” on the end of every word, but somewhere of red-and-white chequered tablecloths, family photos on exposed brick walls, Cinzano posters, low lighting. But not silly, ignoring the poster of footballer Kevin Lasagna. “Frankie & Benny’s chic,” said my friend. “Yes,” I said, “but it works at Brutto.”