It’s one way to save some money. Except, he hasn’t. That wood is a pine sourced especially from Switzerland, atypical for a sushi bar but still a fortune. And then, where most operators would put in seats — you know, for customers, to make money — D’Sylva’s filled most of the room with a whopping great kitchen split between workspace and wine fridge. This is surrounded by a counter, so there’s only really room for about 12 at a go, though tables are turned hastily, as many as 10 times a day. There are no bookings, only walk-ins, and a queue forms almost as soon as doors open at noon.