This part of Devon, only 30 miles from the Cornish border, is rugged and less polished. Accents are stronger, communities tighter; the mysterious Lundy island isn’t far away. And so after a walk along the coast, the place is a refuge — there are “Beaver platters” of mussels, crab, prawns and fried squid waiting. House wines are served as they should be in irreverent country pubs, for a fiver or thereabouts, while ales are local and live music frequent and merry. Yes, it’s easy to feel happy in the Beaver.