Finally, the Academy, which is another members’ club. It is understated and centred on affordable wine, tucked away above Andrew Edmunds, a shrine to bohemians and people who like wearing tailored jackets which are, thanks to mashed potatoes and biscuits, a little on the tight side. Anyway, this is another marked celebration of a watering hole, Soho through and through, ready for the keenest of long afternoons or the most sultry of evenings.