Anyway, Endo’s residency went swimmingly; I’d wager that he could’ve charged £245 twice over and still been full each night. Of all the fancy sushi in London, I like his best. He’s hilarious, charming, witty. With bleached blond hair he guides diners from Irish tuna to Cornish, later Spanish, which is by far the best, among countless other morsels of unrivalled wonderment — and even after 16 courses there’s no sense of tiredness or boredom. Champagne always comes fast; Endo’s own sake goes down quickly.