Anyway, nowhere is all of this more true, I suspect, than in the area around Exmouth Market, home to restaurants that range from iconic (Moro, The Eagle) to influential (Caravan, Shawarma Bar) to unabashedly zhuzhy (Morchella, Passione Vino). So after a flicker of surprise, concern even, that Jackson Boxer was opening Vesper, his new, keenly anticipated restaurant, on Exmouth Market, I settled down. London wanted, wants, this.