Christmas for me is all about family. And it’s about fun and trying to avoid a row. But I don’t get too worked up generally, or about the wine. It’s chaotic, but relaxed too. As long as the turkey’s not raw and the wine doesn’t kill anyone, I’m happy.
I barbecue the turkey and get up at about 6am to do so after having injected the bird with brine for two straight days. It’s usually so fat that I can hardly move it and it bends the grill — the Big Green Egg. I have my first glass, a little splash of fizz, at around 6.30am, just to kick things off. And then I cook the turkey for about four hours and then rest it afterwards for the same amount of time.
We have all the trimmings, naturally — roast parsnips, red cabbage, lovely brussels sprouts with bacon. The roast potatoes are done in goose fat — what else, honestly? — and then there’s stuffing, pigs-in-blankets, carrots glazed in a little honey. But my wife Beth does all the fancy stuff, I tend to stay out of the way. I know my place: turkey and wine. I get a really big bird from Kelly Bronze each year. Although I might take charge of the carrots and cavolo nero, which work well on the BBQ.
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And yes, we kick things off first thing with a little English sparkling, which I think has turned a corner — a handful of producers are truly world-class today. We have Nyetimber, though Chapel Down is another great option. Or there’s one in Sainsbury’s (but more on that later). It’s important to be careful with English stuff. Sadly, I think there’s an awful lot of them just living off this blossoming reputation. Otherwise, I’m quite easy going.
Each Christmas, we have the kids the night before, on Christmas eve. My wife is a complete control freak so we have everyone over to us in Putney, southwest London, on the day. All our family, in-laws and outlaws, and loads of the neighbours too. It’s a real mish-mash. Everyone comes together and enjoys a long lunch. People manage to behave up until the six-hour mark, but if it goes on for any longer the wheels fall off. We don’t have a lot of room to move around in with 24 people.
But I just love it. Everyone is up for it. I organise an early taxi for my dad there and back so he can have a lovely time, and then others are local or don’t drink. We occasionally do Christmas down in Cornwall, because it’s so beautiful and so food-focused, but either way we always have such a wonderful time. I generally just shove magnums on the table for everyone so everyone can help themselves. But we start with a fizz, Simpson’s from Kent is superb, maybe a rose from Camel Valley. And we’ll have some canapes and white wine.
What upsets me come Christmas is that I’m the only one who likes big, oily white wines, the Chardonnays. But I’ll get a nice white Burgundy out, maybe a savagnin, a pouilly fuissé, and something fresh like gruner veltliner. But when the food’s out, we’ll dive straight into the reds and sit down to feast. It’s a serve it yourself situation — a bit of a military operation. And I’ll be running around filling up glasses, while Beth will be putting people on seats.
With the turkey, I always do a pinot noir, Californian. It’ll be juicy, rich, and able to carry all of those crazy flavours. And rioja, something spicy and that tastes like red cabbage, full of cloves and cinnamon. It’s a warm hug. You don’t need to spend big on rioja to get something nice, either — the Vina Ardanza reserve from Majestic is £27 and utterly amazing.
Tom’s Christmas recommendations
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Cremant du Jura, Aldi — £8.19
It’s amazing, brilliant for parties and incredible value. Works superbly well with canapes and everyone loves it. Another good option is Cremant du Loire from Sainsbury’s.
Blanquette de Limoux, Tesco — £10.50
This is really tasty and always really affordable. It’s made in a similar style to cremant, but it’s actually the oldest sparkling wine appellation in the world. We have the mauzac grape here. It’s a fizz invented by mad monks.
Ellercombe English sparkling, Sainsbury’s — £22
This is just great, very racy and fresh. There’s lovely green apples here, fresh acidity, but biscuit and brioche notes going on too. I want to go down there and buy it all.
Famille Brocard Chablis premier cru, Asda — £19.94
This is a posh one — as far as supermarket wines go — and it’s absolutely delicious. Something a bit special.
Pouilly smoke “extra special”, Asda — £12.97
This is a wonderfully fresh wine. I like very few New Zealand sauvignon blancs but I like it as a grape variety. Anyone who enjoys both, give them this. It’s easy drinking.
Paul Jaboulet Aine Viognier, Majestic — £11.50
This is a really nice Viognier, and it’s a bit of a steal for the price. I think it’s absolutely delicious, with a rich, buttery finish.
Gerard Bertrand Cotes of the Roses, Asda — £8.48
This is a fantastic rose. Fresh, zesty and zingy, and a real crowdpleaser. Those after something a little more flash should go for Miravel Cotes de Provence.
Cune rioja, Waitrose — £10
I love this wine, it’s all about soft, ripe red fruits. There’s a lot of oak in there and it’s comforting and elegant.
Blueprint Romanian pinot noir, Waitrose — £7.25
Shug Carneros pinot noir, Waitrose — £26
This is worth the money. Just incredible, a really silky, smooth red wine with fine tannins.
Thirsty by Tom Gilbey is out now with Square Peg at all good book stores. tomgilbey.com