Subway, the American sandwich slinger of middling repute, has decided to combine a fry up and a jacket potato. The chain started selling the latter earlier this year, presumably in a desperate bid to claw back a little relevance and/or gain traction. Subway has been a high street fixture since 1996 — the first shop was in Brighton, curiously — and now there are 2,300 outposts across the country. But it’s hardly part of the conversation. I fail to recognise the chain’s appeal: I find the meats are cheap and unseemly, the salad flavourless, and the bread is sugary and stale. A meatball sub with cheese or an Italian BMT just about work after a big night out, but only at a push, I’d say. Times have changed. Or I thought they had.