It is an unfortunate, ugly word for what is rather beautiful-tasting meat. It refers to sheep that have aged between one and two years; the flavour is more pronounced than delicate lamb, but gentler than mutton. British hogget is also far more seasonally apt for Easter than British lamb, too, making it an ideal choice for a big Easter lunch. Here, Tommy Banks, perhaps best known for the Michelin-starred Black Swan at Oldstead, shares his recipe for roasted hogget meatballs with a St George’s mushroom sauce.