Pubs, we’re told, are in decline in an alarming way: London is down to around 3,400 these days, with 34 closures every month in 2024. This year, boozers look to be fighting back: this month, a revival of the Knave of Clubs in Shoreditch was announced, 30 years after it first closed. And looking back at last year, the restaurant hit of the year? Well, it wasn’t a restaurant at all, but a pub — the Devonshire.