There is, appropriately, a quartet of Four Seasons across central London, including the Queensway original and two outposts on Gerrard Street, all instantly recognisable by the burnished chunks of roast duck and pork hanging in the window for which the chain is justly celebrated. But this tiny Wardour Street branch is our favourite. The belly pork just seems that bit crisper, the char siu a tad juicier, the duck fat slightly more luscious, while the handful of tables means things never get too rowdy and make it somewhere to know when you just fancy a solo set lunch deal of roast meat on rice and a scroll though the news. A side order of ginger and garlic oil is essential while there are also the usual crab and lobster plates, bowls of viscous soup and blandly reassuring bean curd dishes, plus esoteric specials of griddle-cooked pig’s trotter and poached sliced beef in hot chilli oil – but really, if you’re not here for the roast meat, you’re in the wrong restaurant. If you can’t get in here, head down to the Hippodrome (no, seriously, do), where their sister restaurant is: Chop, Chop. Chop, Chop truly is excellent, with stylish surroundings, warm staff, and an excellent range of drinks. It’s Four Seasons luxe, really.
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