Five men, 400 heads of wild cattle including cows, calves and yearlings, almost 500 kilometers between Frías de Albarracín (Teruel) and Vilches, in the province of Jaén, 30 days on the road through five provinces and three autonomous communities, oxen, horses and dogs, almost 20,000 euros of investment, and an exuberant dose of romanticism could be the protagonists of a unique and ancestral event—transhumance of the 21st century—which began on November 26 through the cold lands of Aragon and aims to reach its destination in Andalusia between the 28th and 30th of this month of December.
A whole month crossing livestock trails—trails, ravines, paths and paved roads—to escape the cold and snow and graze during the winter in the pleasant Andalusian province, until the heat of the beginning of summer arrives, and again, on the way to return, another 30 days on the road, to the most benign Aragonese summer climate.
And this is what the cattle of Alicia Chico have been doing since 1940, the rancher who died without children at the age of 59 in 2022, who fulfilled the tradition started by her grandfather, Pedro García Lafuente, and continued by her parents. The baton has been taken over by Tomás González, de facto mayor and rancher while a final decision on the inheritance is being settled.
González, 45 years old, a native of Puebla del Príncipe (Ciudad Real) and dedicated to the care of wild cattle since he was a kid, affirms with absolute firmness that “this transhumance that we do twice a year has a very high component of romanticism and respect.” to the memory of the deceased rancher and her ancestors.”
“These trips have a very high component of romanticism and respect for the memory of the deceased rancher and her ancestors” (Tomás González, mayoral)
He also draws attention to the cost of the activity, “almost 20,000 euros each time we go down or up, which means that the day will come when we cannot do it for strictly economic reasons.” “It is true that, in general, for a month the animals feed on what is in the field,” he adds, “but I must take care of salaries, meals and feed if we encounter snow or other difficulties.” .
And without aid, despite the fact that UNESCO declared transhumance Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2023. “We demand that the Government of Aragon, the community to which we belong, get involved and offer us some type of support,” says the mayor. “Let those of us who work to ensure that a tradition that has practically disappeared in our country and that has been recognized by UNESCO be compensated in some way,” he adds.
Tomás González confesses the satisfaction that the double annual transhumance gives him. “That’s why I do it, because it makes me happy, and for pure romanticism, because it lacks economic profitability.”
Alicia Chico’s livestock is made up of about 500 cattle—180 cows—less than usual due to the restrictions imposed by the pandemic. The livestock house has three irons, the brave blood is originally from Santa Coloma and Manuel Arranz, and its business lies mainly in the field bull runs that are held in the Albarracín mountain range. “My goal is to fight in squares,” says the mayor, “but, for the moment, what feeds us are the bulls.”
Ask. What are the advantages and disadvantages of transhumance?
Answer. The fundamental benefit is that the farms rest and the grass is allowed to grow; Another is that we escape the cold and snow of Teruel and the high summer temperatures of Jaén, and the animals appreciate it.
The damage derives from the difficulties involved in managing the animals on such a long journey, and through terrain not always adapted to the passage of the herd, despite the current Livestock Routes law of 1995. Veterinarian María del Carmen García Moreno declared a few days ago to the RTVE program Tendido Cero, – which has dedicated three reports to this route – that the norm recognizes the existence of 120,000 kilometers of livestock routes for the transit of animals, “But since transhumance is being lost, the administrations have forgotten about it,” he explained. This reality allows some farmers to plant on roads, thus hindering the movement of animals and causing conflicts with cowboys. “Livestock trails are ecological corridors that maintain biodiversity wherever they pass,” continues García Moreno; “Everything we do in that corridor, which is public domain land, is not done only for the good of transhumants, but for the good of biodiversity.” “A rancher, more than producing meat,” he concludes, “is a manager of a territory of high environmental value.”
Not all of Alicia Chico’s cattle make the journey on foot. The steers and bulls are transported by truck “to prevent them from deciding the selection along the way,” Tomás González clarifies sarcastically.
They advance about 20 kilometers every day, crossing the provinces of Teruel, Cuenca, Albacete, Ciudad Real and Jaén, belonging to the autonomous communities of Aragón, Castilla-La Mancha and Andalusia, and the herd can be seen in three towns, Villanueva de la Fuente, Viveros y Solera de Gabaldón.
“We demand that we be compensated for maintaining a tradition that has practically disappeared in our country”
Four men are on horseback and one, Eleuterio, Tomás’ brother and his right-hand man, makes way with an SUV and is in charge of choosing the ideal place to place the electric fence that groups the animals together when night falls. Next to him, under constant surveillance, the cowboys sleep in tents, “the kind mountaineers use,” González clarifies.
Antonio Bascón Sevi, professional photographer and enthusiast of this experience, accompanies them on the trip, and says that “although tonight (last Tuesday) it is five degrees below zero, inside the store and with a good bag you cannot notice the low temperature.”
And there is the future. Tomás González assures that he will continue transhumance as long as he can, and Sevi is not very optimistic.
For now, Christmas Eve and Christmas will be spent in the countryside. “Here you lose track of time and you don’t know what day you live on,” says Sevi. “Maybe, we’ll buy a box of shrimp…”
The cows and calves rest (“when they are eaten, the animals do not fight,” comments the mayor), before the end of the year they plan to arrive at the Los Pendoncillos farm in Jaén, and there they will graze until spring. In the first days of June they will begin the return trip. “We are the only brave cattle ranch that makes such a long journey,” adds González.
It is the commitment to a tradition, transhumance, almost lost in the tunnel of time, but recognized as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. And maintained, in this case, by brave animals.