To Khongphoon, it would feel like a compromise to put more effort into delivery, yet he values the few orders that do come in because he recognises what restaurants mean to people, even when they can’t visit physically. “I had a customer who broke his arm and was craving our food, and he said that when the takeaway arrived, it was like God had sent it to him,” he laughs. It wasn’t the same, but in that time and place it played a role; and as Yin rightly points out: “The primary role of restaurants is first and foremost to restore people.”