On John’s menu are snacks such as ma hor, an ancient royal snack from Thailand reimagined. At AngloThai, the traditional pork, prawn, peanut and fresh pineapple uses candied beetroot and local honey, while toasted rapeseeds are added, so too elderflower vinegar. A dish of Brixham crab combines nahm prik, a Thai chilli paste, with coconut cream and lime, but is paired with British caviar and piped into impeccably modern flower-shaped coconut ash crackers.