Is Bavette the UK’s best neighbourhood restaurant?

In many ways, a good neighbourhood spot is about the paths not taken. In truth, Cousin and Jarvis probably had the opportunity to create a fine dining gastronomic temple, a £150-a-head nine course destination restaurant. Instead, like the best local gems, they focus on delivering afternoons of laughter and conversation alongside broadly familiar fare. The steaks are cooked exceptionally well, as are the chips, a classic barometer of comfort eating, and there’s chocolate fondant and a raspberry frangipane available too. There is, however, just enough play in the menu — in the form of a few lesser-seen plates — to gently expand the palates of those coming by.