Like Don Pepe, Meson Don Felipe is another old-time, family run fixture, one that has stood the test of time. That might be testament enough. Does it serve the best Spanish food in London? Obviously not. It doesn’t need to. The menu still explains what patatas bravas is, for crying out loud — “chips!” — but, you see, there is absolutely nothing wrong with sitting down to croquetas de atun, sardinas fritas and albondigas, not least when you would leave with change from £30. A rarity in London today. In any case, it’s a charming little restaurant, the service is hectic but happy, the wine list is more interesting than some might suppose, and the dining room brings a fairly authentic energy.