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Tollington’s restaurant review: The hype is mighty at this modernised fish and chip shop in Finsbury Park

by News Room
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We finished, jacketed in the buzz of another cherry cola-ish glass of draught vermouth, with a wibbling block of the indulgent flan that is the only real pudding. The bill, despite totalling enough food and drink to fell a pair of Catalan trawlermen, barely breached £150. McIlroy and his team have given north London an eye-catching, wholly unlikely culture clash; an electrically vibey, Spanglish instant classic. But, more than that, what they have also imported is the continental belief that eating and drinking well, rather than being an expensive luxury, is an inalienable right. Those glowing display cabinets have a new lease of life. And Tollington’s is the best sort of counter culture.

Tollington’s. 172 Tollington Park, N4 3AJ. Meal for two plus drinks about £100. Open Wednesday to Friday from 6pm-11pm, Saturday from noon-11pm and Sunday noon-6pm; @tollingtons.fishbar

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