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Palomo Spain, a ‘homeland’ that includes everyone | Talent on board

by News Room
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Without talking about clothes or fashion, a reader who signs as Igonzal defined the work of Palomo Spain in the comments block of a piece published last year in EL PAÍS about the designer from Córdoba: “Palomo is an anti-dandruff treatment for Spain. “A pride in representing the country.” The aforementioned, Alejandro Gómez Palomo (Posadas, Córdoba, 1992), responds in a hotel in the center of Madrid, who since 2016 has safely carried Spain on his label and who has opened the minds of many with his cheeky designs, with pants that allow leaving your ass in the air, with men’s clothing usually associated with women, with genderless fashion, with boots up to the groin… And also with lace, polka dots and ruffles (“Why does a man have to give up wearing them?” ?”, he asks) or with brocades and a manila shawl “through a representation of the clichés in a different way, away from that store of souvenirs with the gypsy and the cut ham.” Spain recognizes itself.

“The idea that I brought has had an effect. I have brought liberation to man. And it has not been an ephemeral thing,” he summarizes. “The brand, beyond proposing a silhouette or a specific garment, has provided a space. Mothers have approached me to tell me that their child wanted to dress like that. We have welcomed many boys who did not know where to fit in, who wanted to play with their most feminine side, who until then did not have a reference. Palomo has some shelter,” she assures.

Alejandro Gómez Palomo, last March in a hotel in the center of Madrid. The designer from Córdoba belongs to that generation that includes Rosalía or C Tangana, who “has fallen back in love with Spanish and wants to speak loud and clear about the things that were being done in Spain.” Photo: MOEH ATITAR

An asymmetrical red tulle with cascading ruffles and jeans with twisted seams, one of the looks that Palomo Spain presented in New York, in 2023. Photo: PROVIDED BY PELONIO

Palomo, in the La Paz market (Madrid), last March. “My generation has been very cautious with the use of color, it has used black a lot. And I like it, just like white. But I am not afraid of using color at all.” Photo: MOEH ATITAR

A bullfighter-style lace top and a dress that transmits the movement described by flamenco dancing. Photo: PROVIDED BY PELONIO

Question: What now?

Answer: The road has not yet been completed. I want to normalize my message. That it reaches different strata of society. And establish myself as a brand and have a future. The ideas and garments that I propose may seem shocking, but they end up gaining weight and reaching a much larger audience. They reach their peak two or three years later, with persistence.

Q. In Spain do you dress well?

R. We dress worse than in other places because we tend to accommodate, to imitate. I don’t care if I wear the same shoes that my neighbor wears because I know that if she wears them I’m doing the right thing. We feel comfortable going the same way. In Spain it is very easy to spot someone who stands out on the street, your gaze disappears very quickly.

Q. What is dressing well?

R. Be consistent with yourself. Dress in accordance with who you are. Make free choices. And also go a little further, have style. Dressing well is having your own language.

Q. And where do you dress well?

R. Where there is less law in this regard. In London, which is very anarchic. From the yuppie who goes to the City in an enormous suit that he bought in a second-hand store and it is too big for him and he wears it with sneakers with a giant foot and rimless glasses. Or the total punk of Camden Town… And in New York, so disordered and chaotic, where there is a constant demand for everyone’s freedoms and where they are so grateful that if you make even the slightest effort to dress well they tell you how incredible you look.


Q. What does New York have that never goes out of style?

R. They tell me it’s not what it was, because I don’t know what it would be like! I am very much in love. London is my ex-boyfriend and New York is that new boyfriend you’re looking forward to seeing all the time. It is a very superficial city, but at the same time everything is not as established and as determined as in Europe… What is good is not as defined, cool, pretty, tacky or ugly. In the end, everyone has a chance, they find their place.

Palomo is working on the collection that she will present at New York Fashion Week in September. It will be the fifth time I have paraded in Manhattan. From the beginning, when he completed his training at the London College of Fashion and at Central Saint Martins (London), he set up the workshop in his town, in Posadas: “The place where I live influences the way color shines on my designs,” he says. “What I see through the window are vibrant colors. A fuchsia pink bougainvillea that couldn’t be more fuchsia. Some red carnations that couldn’t be redder.” She has also marked the church, not as an institution, but as “the place where I could find the most wealth and glamor in my town,” which has translated into purple velvets with embroidery. Her designs reflect “the light and joy we have from living here,” she says in reference to her land. “I can’t design the same way a Belgian designer or even a Basque designer does.”

“Art influences me. There have been collections focused on Velázquez or Zurbarán. I also look at history books and pieces of music”

Alejandro Palomo works in his workshop in Posadas (Córdoba) on the first sketches of the collection that will be exhibited in New York in September. Photos: PACO PUENTES

“I not only focus on romantic art, I also love contemporary art and anything that makes me vibrate, from a film to a photography book”

Clippings of sequences from ‘Saturday Night Fever’ (1977) along with types of fabric and images of garments, ideas to conceive the next collection.

“We are going to set up a pop up this summer on Fire Island, an island where rich gays from New York go on vacation”

Palomo holds a satin pajama set with lace trim, a design that was part of the collection that was presented at New York Fashion Week in September 2023.

Q. Is the bag going to end up being used mostly by men?

R. I think so. Icons of masculinity such as Jacob Elordi (one of the actors in the series Euphoria) always carry a Chanel bag or a bottega. The man who begins to use it realizes how necessary it is. I am not able to leave the house without a bag. I don’t want to fill my pockets with lumps, but the sunglasses case… And then the bags are very cute, but it is a very expensive accessory.

Q. Are the same consumption patterns being repeated with second-hand clothing that already exist in the market? fast fashion (fast fashion)?

R. I have been buying second-hand clothes since I was 14 years old. At first, those around me told me: “Where are you going with those dead clothes? Do you know how dead he is?” The use of the second hand is positive. Now anyone buys on Vinted (a platform where anyone can sell second-hand clothes), which seems like a tremendous option to me. We have become accustomed to buying, to satisfying that desire to wear something new. But you have to know how and do it with caution. Look at this jacket I’m wearing. I must have worn it, I don’t know, a million times?!

Q. Where are you from?

R. From Balenciaga. I bought it two or three years ago. It was already outlet. Then I got another discount. It was the reduction of the reduction of the reduction. It would cost me 600 or 700 euros. There is no better investment than that because I haven’t stopped wearing it. Then I wear a Uniqlo sweatshirt, which is my brand. fast fashion sin. They don’t copy. They sell you classics that will be with you until they break.

The jeans he is wearing are pigeon It has multiplied the classic darts of some chinos, which are located just below the waist, which usually mark the stripe that runs down the middle of the leg. “The other day (cantaor) Israel Fernández told me that when he was little they wanted him to be dressed up, they dressed him with clothespins,” he recalls in this interview Talent on board, Iberia’s project to promote talent in Spanish.

MY DEFINITION OF TALENT

“It is something that makes you special and has to serve to transform or make society think. It only shows with time and persistence. It is easy to have a brilliant idea but talent lies in persisting and following through.”

Q. Does it make sense to continue carrying the word Spain in the brand?

R. It is the designation of origin, in the same way that you talk about Prada Milano. It was a vindicating moment at the beginning of my career. I belong to that generation that has fallen back in love with everything Spanish, that wanted to speak loud and clear to an international audience about things that were being done from Spain. I will not stop being proud of my roots and my symbols. I have been able to put Spain on the international fashion map and it has not necessarily been recognized. I think my work is not taken seriously. I like that it is there and there are people on the street who tell you that, but beyond that, no great investors or patrons have come to me.

Q. Do you have a special affinity with someone who dresses well?

R. I am in tune with many people, with people who work with me and with all the people who accompany me on those trips to New York… Let’s see, I live in a town where 99% of the people think, act, dress and He speaks in a different way than mine. However, we have a healthy coexistence. From any situation you can extract a little sanity or beauty or inspiration.

Q. Are you going to continue in Posadas?

R. I love spending creative times in Posadas, but we also face the drain of talent. After three, four or five years people want to go to other places. At some point we will have to set up something in Madrid or go to New York. Posadas is not something I created, it is my home, but many things would be more efficient being in a city.

The talent of representing modernity…

With Palomo Spain, the designer has brought liberation to men. “My work from the beginning has been characterized by a slightly shameless representation of masculinity by a mischievous boy.” That space is lace, transparencies or boots up to the groin, feathers on the head and neck, flowers…

…and the talent of recovering tradition

Located since the beginning in his town, in Posadas, Palomo has been inspired by all the topics associated with Spain and has incorporated them into his designs, but “represented in a different and new way.” There are ruffles and polka dots and lace and embroidery on a manila shawl. And there are velvets and purple so present in the fabrics of the Catholic ecclesiastical imagination.

Peak Spain

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