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New London restaurants openings this month, in April 2024

by News Room
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A new — surprise surprise — wine bar and restaurant, run by a pair of wine-importer friends, plus a chef with a CV taking in some of the capital’s more modish dining rooms (Brawn and Salon, inter alia). This place, at least, is distinguished by being located on Cloth Fair, one of the prettiest streets of ye olde London and a survivor of the Great Fire, in a double-fronted building beneath the former lodgings of John Betjeman, who would have felt right at home in the interior of low ceilings and wood panelling. The arch anti-modernist might not have been so comfortable with the on-trend cooking: squid with black olive, preserved lemon and lardo, or hogget with grilled cos lettuce, smoked tongue and anchovy. A two-course set lunch for £25, however, should be to any poet’s taste (and bank balance).

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