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Home Events Moor Hall restaurant review | Evening Standard

Moor Hall restaurant review | Evening Standard

by News Room
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So we had the food, the wine. Extraordinary, both. But our meal was not one of silent reverence in the face of mini gastronomic lectures. Almost as soon as we’d made it into the dining room, news was Whatsapped through of Russell Norman’s death. Cue two of us up-and-down from the table, phoning through obits, making amends, calling in rewrites. And after, with that done, the four of us sat talking, remembering. Staff caught on — perhaps a little more wine was poured, and the dish introductions were gently mentioned, not done as interruptions. They fit in with us. Restaurants like this, operating on this level, can sometimes be rigid. Moor Hall manoeuvring showed that, beneath its fine-dining straight face, there is real heart here. It was wonderful to see them show it. And it served as a reminder that the very best restaurants are run for their guests, not their chefs.

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