Lyaness isn’t short of prestige — it does not have regulars but disciples. It is at Lyaness where “double diamond” vodka, made with rye sourced from a single field in Poland, is blended with Champagne and Canadian maple syrup to make a new-age martini, known as the Score and only available on the special editions menu (£30). Or try the Atom, where butternut squash, its “friendly bacteria” in tow, is fermented to become a distillate of vegetal notes, citrus and nectarine flavours before being wed to the humming punch of small batch tequila. They’re asking for £27, steep regardless of skill.