The chef Abby Lee relocated her restaurant to a permanent space in Clapton last year, having already won plaudits at her temporary site in Peckham.
The guide announced its annual 100 Best Local Restaurant list today (Wednesday July 24), with inspectors praising Mambow’s “short, balanced menu of thrilling dishes” and its “friendly, confident service”.
An anonymous inspector went on: “The food is really exceptional. It’s insanely good value. I would go back in a heartbeat.”
Caitlin Isola
Dishes swing from cured fish to tamarind fried king prawns, black pepper chicken curry to slow-cooked lamb ribs with fermented kumquat and sambal. These helped Mambow beat off stiff competition across London to take the title in 2024.
“To win is a wonderful surprise and a real testament to our incredible team,” said Lee. “We are so lucky to work with people that are all equally passionate about showcasing Malaysian cuisine and culture, which has helped put us on the map.”
Co-editor of guide Chloë Hamilton said: “‘The pandemic prompted a change of direction for so many chefs and in Abby Lee’s case it set her on a path to open the wonderful Mambow. The restaurant is always buzzing, and the cooking incredibly flavourful and reviving. It’s a true beacon of London neighbourhood dining.”
Both hinted at a wider trend of a French revival. Claude Bosi’s new casual concept Josephine was also celebrated, as well as restaurants across the country such as L’Hexagone in Norwich and Pompette in Oxford.
The Good Food Guide celebrates independent ventures across the country in its list of 100 restaurants and received an unprecedented 60,000 votes from diners. Inspectors toured the country to find the best and as well as an overall top 100 winner — Bavette in Leeds — the country is divided into regional top tens.
Here’s the London list in full
Mambow, Clapton — regional winner
Sam’s Waterside, Brentford
The 2 Boys, Crouch End
The Parakeet, Kentish Town
Giulia, Shepherd’s Bush
Rubedo, Stoke Newington